Fall colours in Haliburton Highlands

The best spectacle mother nature has to offer is also a fleeting moment.  Within a few weeks, the range of colours from pale yellow to crimson red disappears. So a truly Canadian hobby is to drive around the countryside in early to mid-October to admire the colourful leaves. But rows of trees flying by the car window, no matter how stunningly beautiful, can become a sensory overload that leads quickly to boredom. Nature’s splendour is best appreciated when there is variety in the landscape.

I found variety in the Haliburton Highlands, driving on highway 35. Some parts of this winding road between lakes was built through rocks, exposing the Canadian Shields, which makes it truly one of the most spectacular drive in Ontario, any time of year, but particularly in the Fall season. And there are numerous splendid rapids, never very far from the highway.

If you are driving from Toronto, take highway 401 eastbound towards Peterborough until you reach exit 436 and highway 115. Then follow the signs for highway 35 which will take you around Lindsay before going further North.

If you have enough time, start your journey in Fenelon Falls, a charming town just a few kilometres off highway 35 traversed by the Trent-Severn Waterway. There are numerous historic buildings downtown and the lockstation is a nice place to get out of the car and stretch.

In and around Minden

Get back on highway 35 and soon you’ll be in Haliburton Highlands. The first pretty town you’ll encounter is Minden. The large sculpture of a logger across the bridge downtown next to the Gull river is a reminder of its humble origins. Popular with cottagers, it is a sleepy town once summer is over. Drive through the town and across the bridge; a little further there is a great place for breakfast called Molly’s Bistro Bakery on Bobcaygeon Road.

You might have noticed just before you got to Minden a road sign for Minden Whitewater Preserve. It is well worth the drive. Follow that road for a few kilometres and you’ll see the rapids on your right. This is considered one of Canada’s best whitewater rapids; the kayak slalom competitions at the PanAm Games were held there. There is also a trail for hiking along the river. You might notice some caves along that trail.

Get back on highway 35 and you’ll notice the road keeps going uphill. The winding road follows the curves of several lakes and valleys: Minden Lake, Mountain Lake, Twelve Mile Lake. At some point you’ll get to a traffic light, where highway 35 meets highway 118. If you are hungry, this is the perfect place to stop; there are 3 restaurants to choose from near that intersection. If you are on a budget, I recommend The Mill Pond restaurant on your right hand side after the intersection; it is a good diner, popular among locals. Be aware though, if you want some lunch; the kitchen closes at 3 pm.

Experience the logging past

The many lakes and rivers in the area were used for logging in the 19th and early 20th century. If you want to see what a log chute looks like, here is your chance. Keep driving on highway 35, passed Boshkung Lake on your left and Halls Lake a little further on your right. Turn right on Little Hawk Lake road and follow the signs, turning left on Big Hawk Lake road. The Hawk Lake Log Chute is a few kilometres through a wooded area.

Back on highway 35… The road does a long loop and crosses Kushog Lake. Keep driving north along that lake and you’ll see a rental place on your right: it’s the Haliburton Highlands Water Trail office. There are canoes for rent and you can also get all the information you need to use the many trails for hiking in the area.

Dorset: a real gem of a hamlet

Your next stop after that is the beautiful hamlet of Dorset. Located next to the beautiful Lake of Bays, there is truly no other place like this. It has been a tourist destination for quite some time. In the early 1900s, world celebrities came to Dorset to admire the beautiful lakes on board wood steamships. One of those ships is still used for tours: SS Bigwin. The general store next to the bridge has been owned by the same family since the 1920s and stepping inside is truly like stepping into history.

Summer is, of course, the busiest season for the area. But Fall might be the best time to go for visit for nature photographers and painters. For those people, the Dorset Lookout Tower is a great place to admire the vast colourful forest and numerous lakes. Just outside Dorset, a little further North, you’ll see a sign on your left. You can either park your car and walk up or pay a bit more and drive to the top of the hill. It is worth it on a clear day. If you have vertigo, you probably should avoid climbing the tower; the staircase is pretty steep.

Oxtongue rapids and Oxtongue Lake

Driving North from Dorset, you come to an area that, to this day, inspires so many painters and nature photographers from around the world. It all started with Tom Thomson and the Group of Seven in early 20th Century and it’s easy to see why. One particular spot is the Oxtongue Rapids Park. To get there, drive North on highway 35 up to the end, when you reach highway 60. Turn right and drive East on highway 60 until you see a small sign on the side of the road. Blink and you’ll miss it. The small road is not paved and is pretty bumpy so you might want to consider walking along that road, especially if you’re driving a small car. But DO NOT try to drive all the way to the other end; it becomes way too bumpy once you pass the small parking lot.

If the sight of all those rapids and lakes inspired you to go for an excursion in a kayak or a canoe, get back on highway 60, drive a little further East. You will see several cottage resorts on your right, next to Oxtongue Lake. Just before the bridge, turn left and you’ll find an Algonquin Outfitters rental place. There are canoes and kayaks for rent and the rates are very reasonable. I highly recommend you go for a ride to the spectacular Ragged Falls. It is really easy, no need to be an expert, and the return ride takes no more than 3.5 to 4 hours, depending how long you choose to stay to admire the falls.

Enjoy the incredibly scenic drive.

Postcards Ontario