Port Dover and Lake Erie

Port Dover, a beach town right out of the 50s

Lake Erie is the underdog of the Great Lakes, despite its shallow turquoise and warmer water that makes it the safest for swimming. Drive along the Lake Erie Waterfront Trail and you’ll find a series of beaches: Turkey Point, Long Point, Port Burwell, Port Bruce. I love that road; it is always quiet and the several hamlets and towns along it all look like they were groomed for a car commercial: Port Rowan, Normandale, Port Ryerse.

The biggest and most popular of those is Port Dover. I am reminded of why every time I go; it’s a beach town frozen in time. At the centre of it sits the ageless Erie Beach Motel with its colourful sign and the always impeccable lawn. One would expect to see pink flamencos planted in the middle of it. In front of the motel, cars still park on a diagonal. Across the street, the old carousel is gone but the rest remains pretty much the same. On a windy day, little mounds of sand cover the sidewalks. And of course there is the beautiful lighthouse, which makes it picture perfect for amateur photographers.

Fish and chips is the main item on the menu

My favourite way to end a day at the beach is to eat fish and chips on a picnic table facing the beach, watching the sunset. And judging by the number of large fishing boats docked at the marina, fish and chips is a serious business here; fresh perch and pickerel are on the menu of several local restaurants.

But as I recently discovered, there is more to Port Dover than a pretty beach, fish and chips and a lovely sunset. The picturesque Lynn River Falls on Prospect Street, across the road from Clonmel Castle is a hidden gem. And within a 10 minute drive to the North from there, Bonnieheath Estate Lavender and Winery is a treat for the senses. The winery offers new hybrid varieties I tasted for the first time: frontenac, frontenac gris and seyval. And of course all the derivatives of beauty products and perfumes made from lavender. To see some lavender blooming in the field, early, mid July is the time to go. On your way there in late summer and early fall, you’ll also find apple and pear growers that sell their produce on the side of the road at a very reasonable price.

More impressive wines are made in this area of Lake Erie, the most famous of the local wineries is Burning Kiln, set on a former tobacco farm near Turkey Point. The patio is popular, the food is prepared by an upscale local restaurant, David’s. You have to make a reservation to get a table though.

Port Burwell is a good place to start your visit

My drive to Lake Erie usually starts much further West from Straffordville, south of Tillsonburg. It is accessible either from highway 401 by getting off at exit 216 and driving south on road Oxford 10. After 2 ½ hours of driving, I like to stop for lunch at the very friendly Sunshine Restaurant where the owner will serve meals inspired by her family’s recipe books. It is a disappearing breed of restaurants as the fast food chains pop up everywhere. Not only does it serve good food, it also provides essential services to the community. I also like to drive to Port Burwell for fish and chips. My favourite so far : Schooner’s Galley, opened in 2017.

I usually prefer to get to Port Burwell through highway 403, exit 27 for ON-24 South, then through countryside roads through Courtland. Book lovers will want to explore Fernlea used bookstore on highway 3 near Delhi. You’ll also find fresh produce from the farms along the road; and if you love pastries, you will probably be tempted to stop at Courtland’s bakery, also on highway 3.

As you enter Port Burwell, you will notice an unusual sight: an old decommissioned submarine which sits on a piece of land behind the main street’s restaurants. It was acquired as a public attraction by the municipality.

Several great beaches along the Waterfront Trail

Once in Port Burwell, I personally prefer to use the beach at the Port Burwell Provincial Park rather than the one in town. It is longer and often less crowded. The beach in Port Bruce, about 20 km West, is smaller but very charming with a few restaurants directly on the beach.

From Port Burwell, follow the Waterfront trail along Lake Erie going East. It is a nice scenic drive and once you past Port Rowan, a picturesque little town (which offers some good option for food) there are several more beaches to choose in Long Point and Turkey Point.

If you want to experience the area’s natural beauty, Long Point offers a complete eco-adventure park (right across the road from the winery Burning Kiln): luxury glamping in natural setting, star gazing at the observatory, kayaking and canoeing, zip lining, mountain biking and fishing.

On my way back to Toronto from Port Dover, I can never resist one last treat: a sundae at Hewitt’s dairy farm on highway 6, a few kilometers past the town of Hagersville. It’s like ending the day on the set of American Graffiti. It’s literally the cherry on the sundae.

Have a safe trip.

Postcards Ontario