Jones Falls and the Rideau Canal Waterway

Where in the world can you find a region defined by nature, history and engineering, a place where all those elements come together to create several stunningly beautiful sites perfect for boating, canoeing and kayaking? The Rideau Canal Waterway provides such a place; and it starts right off the highway 401, north of Kingston.

The 23 lockstations, each a wonder of engineering, connect numerous lakes and rivers, which make navigation possible from Ottawa all the way to Kingston, a distance of 200 kilometers. It was completed in only 5 years, between 1826 and 1831, and features some of the most impressive man made structures in the world.

Seeley’s Bay: a peaceful place for kayaking

The portion of the Rideau Canal Waterway that is most spectacular is along highway 15, between Kingston and Smiths Falls, which you can reach from the highway 401 immediately after Kingston (if you drive from Toronto). Take the exit 623 and drive less than 30 kilometers north on highway 15 to Seeley’s Bay. There is no lockstation here but it is a good starting point. It is a very pretty town to visit and a good place to go for a kayak or canoe excursion. To rent canoes, kayaks and boats, here is a list of addresses along the Rideau Canal waterway. I found the most affordable rate at Sunny Acres Resort and Marina in Seeley’s Bay.

Be aware that restaurants are very sparse in that area. You may want to stop in Kingston for lunch before you get on highway 15. My suggestion is to bring some food and go for a picnic at Jones Falls, about 15 kilometers from Seeley’s Bay. Why? Because the lock station at Jones Falls is the most spectacular and impressive of all.

Jones Falls is the most impressive of the lockstations

Follow the signs on highway 15 and turn left on Road 11. A few kilometers further, you will find a parking lot for visitors on your left. From there, walk down the hill towards the floating bridge next to Hotel Kenney; you will see the first lock across the lake. Cross the bridge and walk up to the third lock where some picnic tables are spread. Not only will you find the best view of the locks; there is also a large basin separating the third and fourth lock, a great place to go for a swim.

You may also park your car closer to the floating bridge in front of Hotel Kenney if you are planning to eat there or spend the night. It is a charming old hotel that seems to be frozen in time. There are some motel rooms and cottages to rent as well. If you are looking for peace and quiet, this is it. During the summer nights, you might see fireflies; loons, geese and herons are a common sight during the day along with turtles and even the occasional porcupine.

There is more to see than the locks themselves. Follow the trail up from the third lock and walk for about 5 minutes and you will find yourself on top of the 60 feet tall dam, the tallest of the British Empire at the time, built block by block with cut stone carried by horses: a very impressive structure. And next to the dam is a beautiful lake, the perfect place to go for a swim from the dock.

Chaffeys Lock: the most beautiful hamlet in Ontario

If you are going for a one day visit to the area, make sure you still have time to make at least one more stop. Located about 25 kilometeres, Chaffeys Lock might be a very small lockstation but you will inevitably fall under its charm. It is one of the most beautiful hamlet in Ontario. Chaffeys Lock is also a great place to do some canoeing and kayaking. There are also places to rent canoes and kayaks.

For the history buffs, there is an old cemetery where the workers who died from malaria outbreaks during the construction of the station are burried in unmarked graves. It is located in the wooded area accessible from the road next to one boat rental place. There is a small sign pointing towards the cemetery.

Oh yes… get your camera ready: it is not rare to see deers walking around the wooded areas in town.

There is plenty more to see…

Do you like spooky? If so, from Chaffey’s Lock, go back to highway 15, drive north towards Smiths Falls, turn left on road 42, left again on Hutchings Road and then left on route 10 (Perth Road). You’ll see a sign to Bedford Mills. It is a former ghost town. From the dirt road leading to the old mill, look at the tall grass in the pond, the dead trees and the few abandoned buildings; you’ll expect to hear crows and see ghosts floating around. It is the perfect setting for a horror movie !

There are several more lockstations to visit in that area. Davis Lock for instance, located in between Jones Falls and Chaffey’s Lock, also provides a nice place for swimming.

For the serious history buffs, the Rideau Canal Visitor Centre is located in an old stone mill in Smiths Falls next to the canal; there are exhibits and archives about the construction of the waterway.

But you might prefer to end your trip a little further east in Merrickville, a charming old town where most of the original buildings downtown are very well preserved. There are several cute shops on the main street and on a Sunday during the summer months, you might come across several old cars being driven around town.

You might choose to drive West from Smiths Falls instead and visit the town of Perth, my personal favourite. Its main street is a stunning example of preservation of old buildings; most of them are original and in perfect conditions. There are several restaurants to choose from. A canal flows underneath the main street towards Stewart Park, a fabulous place to relax and enjoy a breeze on a hot summer afternoon.

Enjoy your visit.

Postcards Ontario